2010 Fuligni Brunello di Montalcino Riserva

The 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is earthy upon first tilt of the glass, mixing flowery underbrush and worn leather. Yet it slowly unwinds with time, adding depths of dried black cherry, plum and sage. This is seamlessly silky and serene, displaying remarkable balance as a wave of ripe fruits and sweet spice flow across the palate with ease, giving way to a tug of grippy tannins toward the close. A bump of residual acidity maintains marvelous freshness as the 2010 tapers off long, structured and spicy with a hint of sous-bois . As pleasurable as this is today, the 2010 is still maturing in bottle, displaying a primary concentration that will carry it for decades—bravo.

The 2010 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is a wine that shows immense harmony and inner poise. The powerful vintage is elegantly tempered in this expression thanks to the flowing and musical nature of the aromatic presentation. The bouquet opens to a steady pace with small berry nuances followed by spice, tobacco, pressed rose and moist earth. Dig deep and there is a bit of white truffle in there as well. The wine boasts a silky texture with a lean, tonic feel that excels in terms of length and persistence. It never feels too heavy or flat. In fact, the wine is brimming with inner energy and vitality.

Tasted blind. Heavy bottle! Dark ruby with bright orange rim. Compact, firm nose and concentrated, elegant palate that still holds back. Quite precise, succulent finish that oozes style. (WS)