2011 Carlisle Zinfandel Hayne Vineyard

(made from vines planted in 1903 and picked on September 30; bottled with 16% alcohol and a pH of 3.4): Inky ruby. Expansive, floral- and spice-accented aromas of candied black and blue fruits, Indian spices and incense, with a hint of smokiness emerging with air. Viscous in texture but shockingly lively, offering intense, vanilla-accented boysenberry and cassis flavors lifted and supported by juicy acidity. Fine-grained tannins come on late and add grip to a long, sweet finish that echoes the floral note.

Another addition to the lineup, the 2011 Zinfandel Hayne Vineyard is laced with expressive dark fruit, smoke, tar, licorice and cedar. Plush, deep, and beautifully balanced, the 2011 finishes with a gorgeous burst of blue and black fruit, violets, graphite and asphalt buttressed by vibrant minerality. This is going to be a fascinating wine to check on once it is in bottle. Originally planted in 1903, Hayne is one of California’s heritage, old-vine sites. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2021. Proprietor Mike Officer arrived with a bevy of wines for our tasting, all of which I was thrilled to sample. Readers who don’t think terroir exists in California should check out the Carlisle Zinfandels and Syrahs, many of which emerge from old-vine, heritage sites that nearly disappeared until Officer and some of his peers rescued them from the brink of oblivion. In particular, the 2011 Zinfandels are fabulous. Officer describes 2011 as a very late harvest. The Syrahs were all picked after the rains, while the thinner-skinned Zinfandels naturally came in quite a bit earlier. Officer told me he performed a severe selection of fruit that took with it a full 50% of the production. For his efforts, Officer has been rewarded with a set of gorgeous wines, although I imagine his faithful clientele won’t be too thrilled with the lower production levels of these wines, given their already minuscule production. Unfortunately, 2011 Compagni Portis and Gruner Veltliner were to be bottled right after this tasting, so I will have to wait until another opportunity to sample those wines. Carlisle is resolute in keeping his wines affordable, a commendable approach I wish were more common throughout California. Tel. (707) 566-7700