2012 Domaine Joseph Roty Marsannay

Good bright red. Lively aromas of blackberry and violet. Supple, juicy and fruit-driven if on the lean side, offering a firm acid structure to the blackberry and licorice flavors. A hint of development on the back end should give this early appeal.

The 2012 Marsannay Village comes from several parcels from within the appellation raised in 40% new wood. That new oak is nicely assimilated on the nose, barely noticeable in fact, with clean and ripe raspberry, red cherry and fresh strawberry scents, hints of forest floor emerging with time. The palate is medium-bodied with a succulent entry, good weight and a smooth mouth-feel. Here, the new oak does make an impression, rending the finish just a little high-toned, although it will appease those seeking a more modern take of Marsannay. Domaine Joseph Roty has a reputation for being a little “prickly” towards journalists. I probably would too if I were a winemaker. I guess it must derive from some troubled tete-a-tetes with Clive Coates many years ago and reputation spread. From my own point of view, I have always found the Roty family to be friendly and obliging of any requested visit. It is just that they are not going to lay out the red carpet – and nor should they. They are too busy working out in the vineyard, which means they have their priorities right. As usual, they had lined up samples on a table overlooking their clos of vines outside the family home. Phillipe Roty was indeed out in the vines when I called and so his mother guided me through the wines. She told me that the harvest commenced on 22 or 23 September (she could not remember exactly, but what’s 24 hours between friends?) Like everywhere else, their old vines especially were severely affected by millerandage and there was widespread coulure around Gevrey. All the fruit here is de-stemmed. You might describe the wines as erring towards more modern in style apropos ripeness levels and use of new oak, although they are extremely well crafted and as always, disprove the notion that Marsannay cannot produce great Pinot Noir. Check out Roty’s “Boivin” or “Clos de Jeu” for quite brilliant expression of this village at the northern extreme of the Cote d’Or. Their top crus can be outstanding and the 2012s offer a clutch of delicious, fruit-laden, complex wines from old vines that will age with style and grace. Roty is one of the great names of Gevrey and Philippe Roty and his team continues to quietly produce wines from the top-drawer. Importer: Wine of France (NY) and Atherton Wine Imports (www.awiwine.com) in California. Also Private Cellar, Robert Rolls, Corney & Barrow.