2012 Turley Zinfandel Judge Bell

(15.9% alcohol; from a vineyard planted in 1907): Captivating, complex perfume of musky raspberry, coffee, sage and wild herbs; communicates an impression of garrigue (this vineyard is actually surrounded by open land). At once dense and juicy, with lovely purity and a high pitch to its briary red berry, herb and spice flavors. Strong acidity accentuates the impression of dryness. Finishes juicy, tight and complex, with firm dusty tannins. A rather Old World style, and with considerable potential for improvement in bottle.

The 2012 Zinfandel Judge Bell emerges from a specific block of the Story Vineyard in the Shenandoah Valley. These head-trained, dry-farmed vines were planted in 1907. Lots of boysenberry, black cherry, pepper and earthy notes emerge from this big, rich, full-bodied, delicious Zinfandel. Turley Wine Cellars has long been one of the more enviable wine operations in California. Larry Turley should, and does, receive enormous credit for nearly single-handedly preserving many of the heritage old vine Zinfandel sites that exist in northern California. Most of them were threatened with being torn up with what was believed to be more popular varietals such as Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir. This estate produces nearly thirty single vineyard Zinfandels and Petite Syrahs, all from organically farmed vineyards. Natural yeast fermentations have always been the rule, and the percentage of new oak used has dropped from a high of 30% to about half that. Their Zinfandels are never shy, but tasting through the 2012s, it appears they are not as extracted as they once were, but the alcohols remain in the 15% to 16% range because Zinfandel is rarely ripe at lower sugars. It appears that Larry Turley was destined to resuscitate these old vine vineyards as he worked for a quarter of a century as an emergency room doctor. He now works full time shaping wines from nearly three dozen old vine parcels. As he says, he’s never met an old vine vineyard he didn’t like. Turley’s long-time assistant winemaker, Ehren Jordan, has left to pursue his own project (Failla Wines), but Turley has the highly competent Tegan Passalacqua as his wingman. Virtually every one of these 2012 Zinfandels will be drinkable upon release in 2014, and should last for 6-8 years. Larry Turley was one of the first to exploit some of the old vine vineyards planted in sandy soils from the backwater areas of Lodi and Contra Costa. The two Contra Costa sites include the Duarte and Salvador, both ancient vineyards with the Salvador directly planted on its own roots in 1896. The Duarte was named after a prominent grower in Contra Costa. The Petite Syrahs are different animals altogether and most of them should keep for 30-40 years – at a minimum! Tel. (707) 963-0940

The 2012 Zinfandel Judge Bell Vineyard is a pretty, delicate wine laced with sweet red berries, flowers, spices and mint. The style is feminine, floral and intensely aromatic. The 2012 should drink well pretty much upon release.