2011 Arnot-Roberts Ribolla Gialla Gialla Vare Vineyard

(12.5% alcohol): Light yellow-gold. Assertive aromas of lemon zest and pear, with a smoky mineral undertone and sexy floral qualities. Clean and brisk but concentrated, with palate-staining citrus fruit flavors giving way with aeration to deeper quince, pear and nectarine. The persistent, incisive finish leaves notes of bitter citrus zest and quinine behind. Powerful yet lithe white wine, with limitless food-matching possibilities.

The 2011 Ribolla Gialla Vare Vineyard is a big, broad-shouldered wine. Hints of earthiness, smoke, dried apricots and dried pears take shape in a wine that shows surprising depth and volume. Saline notes from the cool vintage add brightness on the finish. The Ribolla is a bit eccentric, but quite beautiful. Beginning in 2012, Arnot-Roberts will have two Ribollas, the second done in terra cotta amphorae. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2018. Duncan Arnot Meyers and Nathan Roberts were in high spirits on the day I saw them, as the San Francisco Chronicle had just named them Winemakers of the Year, well-deserved recognition for this talented duo who have known each other since childhood. As for the wines, well, they were pretty special, as I hope these notes make clear. Meyers and Roberts use a fair bit of whole clusters and shy away from doing too much in the cellar, which means the wines are made with natural yeasts and see minimal handling in the cellar. Tel. (707) 820-1383