2004 Terredora di Paolo Taurasi Fatica Contadina

The 2004 Taurasi Fatica Contadina is truly beautiful and refined. Silky ripe tannins frame red berries, underbrush, tobacco, spices and dried flowers. Ash, smoke and licorice develop in the glass, adding further layers of complexity to what seems like an eternal finish punctuated by clean, mineral notes. Today the 2004 is impossibly young and powerful, but in a few years’ time it will develop into a splendid Taurasi. Actually, it already is. Once again, a comparison with Barolo seems particularly apt. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2034. Terredora is a relatively new property that was created through the split of the Mastroberardino family in 1994. As part of the division, Terredora kept the family’s vineyards but gave up the ability to use the Mastroberardino name. Terredora releases three Taurasis. The Fatica Contadina is made from a variety of vineyards. It sees 14-20 days of contact on the skins, followed by malolactic fermentation in steel. The Fatica Contadina spends close to two years in French oak barrels, of which roughly 50% are new. A small portion of the wine (about 10%) is aged in 35-hectoliter casks. In recent vintages the oak seems to be better integrated than was the case in the past. The single-vineyard Taurasi Campore is made from an old parcel in Lapio that was previously used for Mastroberardino’s Taurasi Radici. The estate’s newest Taurasi, Pago dei Fusi, is from a younger vineyard planted in 1996. Terredora remains a relatively recent success story. The wines from the 1990s are uneven and at times excessively oaky. The first truly important wine is the 2001 Fatica Contadina, while the 2004s represent a new level of elegance and finesse across all three Taurasis.