2010 Dehlinger Claret

(made from 70% cabernet sauvignon and 30% syrah and aged in 40% new French oak): Opaque ruby. Black and blue fruits on the nose, with a bright, spicy quality adding verve. Sappy, penetrating and gently sweet, offering energetic cassis and boysenberry flavors and a touch of anise. Finishes on a suave, sweet note, with great length, energy and lift.

The 2010 Claret is quite different from previous vintages in that it includes 30% Syrah Goldridge, which gives the wine a sense of structure and tannin that is a bit unusual for this bottling. Racy and dark in its introspection, the 2010 is likely to require a few a good years in bottle before it starts showing well. Olives, black cherries, sage, rosemary and licorice are all woven into the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. Tom and Eva Dehlinger's wines stand out for many reasons, including their very fair prices. This year I thought the Syrahs were particularly of note. Yields have been down in the last few years because of a conversion back to cane pruning, but with 2011 yields are up to a bit higher than normal. The Dehlinger wines are beautiful, full of character and richly deserving of a broader audience. Tel. (707) 823-2378