2008 Dehlinger Syrah Estate

The 2008 Syrah Estate, from Altamont, bursts onto the palate with a melange of dark red fruit, licorice and spices. All of the elements come together beautifully in the glass as the waves of fruit build towards the creamy, textured finish. Bright floral notes, white pepper, leather, licorice, tar and spices add further dimensions of complexity. Although not indicated on the label, the 2008 Estate is made entirely from Altamont fruit. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018. I tasted a large number of wines with Tom and Eva Dehlinger, including several older wines, all of which have held up beautifully. These remain some of the most fairly priced wines in California. Tom Dehlinger describes 2009 as a very cool Pinot vintage. Dehlinger reports that yields in 2009 are down approximately 40% because of cold weather before and during bloom. The Pinot ripened evenly, and the harvest started on September 4 as opposed to late August, which is more typical in these sites, once known for their similarly early-maturing apples. In 2009 Dehlinger bottled his High Plains Pinot separately rather than blending it into the Altamont, which is frequently the case, as it is again in 2010. Rains during the harvest were trickier for the later-ripening Syrah, which wasn’t picked until October 20. Elegance and freshness are the hallmarks of the 2009 Syrahs, which stand in stark contrast to the riper, more concentrated 2008s. Vintage 2010 is another story completely. The Pinot harvest was even later than in 2009, and didn’t get started until September 22. In 2009 Dehlinger has several new wines, including a Zinfandel. Dehlinger made Zinfandel from 1975 to 1983. When the opportunity arose to purchase high-quality Zinfandel and Petit Sirah, Dehlinger decided it was time to take the plunge once again. Tel. (707) 823-2378

Dark violet. More restrained than the Goldridge Vineyard bottling, displaying brooding dark berry and fruitcake aromas and slow-mounting spiciness. Then more animated on the palate, with deep blackberry and mulberry flavors complicated by an exotic floral pastille quality, Becomes smokier and spicier with air and finishes on a vibrant, peppery note, with excellent clarity. By all means decant this for an hour or so if you plan on opening one soon.