2010 Domaine Lignier-Michelot Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

The 2010 Clos de la Roche bursts from the glass with super-ripe red cherries, raspberries, rose petals and spices. The Clos de la Roche boasts striking inner perfume, impeccable balance and the silkiest of tannins, all in an elegant, racy package that is absolutely irresistible. Layers of deeply perfumed fruit build effortlessly to the energetic, expansive finish. This is another dazzling showing from Virgile Lignier. The 2010 is a blend of estate and purchased fruit, approximately two-thirds and one-third respectively, and was made with 40% whole clusters. Anticipated maturity: 2025-2045. Virgile Lignier began his harvest on September 24. Potential alcohols came in between 11.8 and 14%. The wines under 12.5% were lightly chaptalized by about a half degree. I tasted all of the 2010s from tank, where they were resting in anticipation of bottling, which was scheduled to start this January. Virgile Lignier told me he was quite surprised by the quality of the 2010s, especially the ripeness of the tannins. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Polaner Selections, Mt. Kisco, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404

Quite tight on the nose, but really explosive on the palate – such finely chiselled fruit! You can really taste the grandness of the cru. Long, slinky finish with a featherweight tannic lick. Very approachable, if infantile, now. (RH)

(50+% vendange entier ): Good full, deep red. Very ripe on the nose but a bit less floral and delineated than the Clos Saint-Denis. Fat, silky and sweet on the palate, with a salty minerality currently overshadowing primary fruits. Bigger than the Clos Saint-Denis but less sophisticated. Seems close to overripe, but finishes with solid tannic support and excellent length.