2015 Seghesio Family Zinfandel Old Vines

92% Zinfandel, 7% Petite Sirah, 1% Alicante Bouschet. Grapes were primarily estate-grown from old head-pruned vineyards in the Dry Creek bench and the cooler south-west Alexander Valley. The average age of the vines is approximately 70 years. Careful canopy management was employed including green harvest, weak-shoot removal and veraison thinning. 2015 was one of the earliest harvests on record in Sonoma County. Although the summer was relatively mild, the dry and warm weather in spring accelerated vine development. These sustained warm conditions and the reduced water reserves meant the harvest period was early and compact with all grapes picked before the end of September. The grapes began fermenting in small, open-top fermenters with regular punchdowns. After nine days of maceration, the free-run wine was then transferred to barrel to complete primary fermentation and undergo malolactic fermentation. The wine was barrel-aged for 15 months in a mix of French, American and European oak barrels, 20% of which were new French oak. TA 5.8 g/l, pH 3.69. Deep cherry red. Rich, aromatic and spicy with the first signs of bottle age in a note of mulched leaves, but only just. Mouth-filling, warming and packed with spicy black fruit. Pretty much the opposite of today's trendy light reds but it is a great example of full-bodied and rich Zin, without any over- or underripeness. Long and smoothly textured with black-olive savour on the finish. Still has a long way to go though you could approach it now with food. (JH)