2013 Di Costanzo Cabernet Sauvignon Farella Vineyard

Massimo di Costanzo's 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Farella Vineyard is even better from bottle than it was from barrel. Vivid, rich and concentrated, the 2013 Farella captures the essence of this great Napa Valley vintage. Mocha, graphite, smoke, crème de cassis, licorice and dark spices meld together in a deep, unctuous Cabernet Sauvignon supported by firm Coombsville tannins and salivating acidity, both of which give the wine its energy. Modern and yet also classic, Di Costanzo's 2013 is a total knock-out. Today, the wine is a touch compact and closed in on itself, so readers will have to be patient. Lastly, the inscription on the cork shows Di Costanzo's sense of humor: vino fa cantare, acqua fa male, which translates to 'wine makes you sing, water is bad for you.'

The 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Farella Vineyard is a big step up from the 2012. Mocha, espresso, plums, black cherries and smoke flesh out in a ripe, explosive wine endowed with massive structure. More mineral-inflected notes develop later, adding further shades of nuance. The 2013 comes across as a bit ripe and overextracted, but it is a terrific showing from a young winemaker on the rise. The 2013 spent 15-18 days on the skins and saw 60% new oak.

The 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon Farella Vineyard is quite compelling. Boasting dialed-up notes of bright red fruit, blood orange, cinnamon, rose petal, graphite, new leather, cedar and mocha that lead into the potent finish, the Farella is an explosive and dense old-school Coombsville Cabernet with just a touch of modern polish. The 2013 is still a tannic beast, but a beautiful beast. The aromatics are compellingly finessed, very floral and intensely mineral.