2010 Carlisle Zinfandel Monte Rosso Vineyard

The 2010 Zinfandel Monte Rosso Vineyard is a fabulous example of this heritage California variety as captured in one of the state’s top sites. Sweet, dark and imposing, the 2010 boasts stunning depth and concentration. Firm mountain tannins frame the huge, enveloping finish. From start to finish the Monte Rosso is pure distinction and class. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030. Proprietor Mike Officer arrived with a bevy of wines for our tasting, all of which I was thrilled to sample. Readers who don’t think terroir exists in California should check out the Carlisle Zinfandels and Syrahs, many of which emerge from old-vine, heritage sites that nearly disappeared until Officer and some of his peers rescued them from the brink of oblivion. In particular, the 2011 Zinfandels are fabulous. Officer describes 2011 as a very late harvest. The Syrahs were all picked after the rains, while the thinner-skinned Zinfandels naturally came in quite a bit earlier. Officer told me he performed a severe selection of fruit that took with it a full 50% of the production. For his efforts, Officer has been rewarded with a set of gorgeous wines, although I imagine his faithful clientele won’t be too thrilled with the lower production levels of these wines, given their already minuscule production. Unfortunately, 2011 Compagni Portis and Gruner Veltliner were to be bottled right after this tasting, so I will have to wait until another opportunity to sample those wines. Carlisle is resolute in keeping his wines affordable, a commendable approach I wish were more common throughout California. Tel. (707) 566-7700

(15.8% alcohol): Bright purple. Exotic, seductively perfumed bouquet of blueberry, boysenberry, cherry-cola and incense, with a spicy underpinning. Sweet and silky, offering spicy, deeply pitched dark berry flavors and a sexy floral nuance. Shows impressive energy as well as depth, finishing with excellent persistence and a touch of bitter chocolate.

The 2010 Zinfandel Monte Rosso Vineyard is sweeter, ripe and richer than the Bedrock Vineyard Zinfandel. This is a decidedly exuberant wine bursting with black cherries, plums, licorice, tar and smoke. With a little more polish, the 2010 might merit a higher score. The field blend is 96 % Zinfandel and 4% Grand Noir, from a site planted in 1886.