2011 Carlisle Zinfandel Monte Rosso Vineyard

(15.8% alcohol and a pH of 3.44): Saturated ruby. Displays assertive aromas of black and blue fruit liqueur, anise, potpourri and peppery spices. Plush, palate-coating boysenberry and cassis flavors of outstanding density and energy are complemented by suggestions of candied lavender, vanilla and allspice. Silky tannins make a late appearance and are quickly absorbed by the wine's intensely concentrated fruit. This one won't let go of the the palate. According to Officer these vines are 125 years old.

The 2011 Zinfandel Monte Rosso Vineyard is surprisingly soft and supple for a wine from this historic hillside vineyard. The dark, charred, mineral-laden notes that are typical of this site are present, but very much in the background today. The 2011 surprises for its juiciness, which nearly covers the mountain tannins. Blue and black fruits, cloves, violets and camphor add complexity on the plush, inviting finish. The 2011 appears to have at least good mid-term aging potential. It is yet another standout in a portfolio full of highlights. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026. Proprietor Mike Officer arrived with a bevy of wines for our tasting, all of which I was thrilled to sample. Readers who don’t think terroir exists in California should check out the Carlisle Zinfandels and Syrahs, many of which emerge from old-vine, heritage sites that nearly disappeared until Officer and some of his peers rescued them from the brink of oblivion. In particular, the 2011 Zinfandels are fabulous. Officer describes 2011 as a very late harvest. The Syrahs were all picked after the rains, while the thinner-skinned Zinfandels naturally came in quite a bit earlier. Officer told me he performed a severe selection of fruit that took with it a full 50% of the production. For his efforts, Officer has been rewarded with a set of gorgeous wines, although I imagine his faithful clientele won’t be too thrilled with the lower production levels of these wines, given their already minuscule production. Unfortunately, 2011 Compagni Portis and Gruner Veltliner were to be bottled right after this tasting, so I will have to wait until another opportunity to sample those wines. Carlisle is resolute in keeping his wines affordable, a commendable approach I wish were more common throughout California. Tel. (707) 566-7700