2011 Joseph Phelps Chardonnay Freestone Vineyards Pastorale Vineyard

From the best block of the Freestone Vineyard, the 2011 Chardonnay Pastorale sees slightly more new oak (55%). This Corton-Charlemagne-like white wine reveals lots of wet stone, citrus oil, white peach and apple blossom notes with the wood component well-concealed, a rich, medium to full-bodied style, and a nicely layered finish that builds incrementally. It should drink well for 3-4 years. Joseph Phelps has a whopping 102 acres on the Sonoma Coast called the Freestone Vineyard, 82 acres of which is planted in Pinot Noir and the balance Chardonnay. The interesting thing about this site is the bud break can occur as early as February, and the hang time often exceeds the European model of “100 days,” often lasting as long as 120 to140+ days. All of the wines that follow, even in a great vintage such as 2012, rarely exceed 14.2% alcohol, with most coming in under 14%. Their flavor intensity and richness make them fascinating, and I suspect this relatively new operation will get better and better as the vines age, and the Phelps team in Napa continues to fine tune the vineyards and the winemaking. www.josephphelps.com

Bright golden-yellow. More floral on the nose than the basic Freestone Vineyards release, offering flamboyant aromas of candied peach, apricot, nutmeg and clove. Big, ripe and broad but quite dry, initially kept under wraps by a fine dusting of CO2. Opened nicely with air to show a silkier, more pliant texture, but this is more about minerals than fruit and finishes with a distinctly tannic quality. I like this wine's restrained sweetness and tactile finish.