2009 Williams Selyem Pinot Noir Peay Vineyard

The 2009 Pinot Noir Peay Vineyard comes across as big, relatively full-bodied and heavy. There is plenty of depth to the fruit, but not so much in the way of finesse or elegance. I expected more from this bottling given the location of the vineyard. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2015. I tasted a dizzying array of Pinot Noirs from Williams Selyem and winemaker Bob Cabral. Yields were down in 2009 because of bunch-stem necrosis, a condition that can occur because of weather/humidity extremes or mineral imbalances. Otherwise, it was a pretty regular vintage with an even set and a harvest that took place beginning in early September. Tel. (707) 433-6425

Glass-staining ruby. Seductively scented, expansive bouquet of smoky blackberry, boysenberry and resinous herbs. Cola and vanilla qualities gain power with aeration and carry onto the palate, which features sappy dark berry and candied cherry flavors. Tannins build slowly with air but not at the expense of the densely packed fruit. Impressively juicy and concentrated pinot with outstanding thrust and cling. As much as I admire the power and depth of this wine, I have a slight preference for the litheness of the Hirsch right now. It would be a treat to be able to compare them down the road.