2009 Anthill Farms Pinot Noir Abbey-Harris Vineyard

The 2009 Pinot Noir Abbey Harris is a big, structured wine that might easily be mistaken for a Barbaresco given its tannic heft. Sweet red cherries, mint, flowers and spices sit on a medium-bodied frame of notable elegance. As good as this is, the Abbey Harris needs at least a year in bottle for the tannins to soften. It is a beautiful wine, even if it isn’t what most California Pinot drinkers are likely to expect. Still, with time in the glass, the wine shows off its pedigree and sheer class. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2019. This line-up from Anthill Farms is very impressive. The Pinots in particular are distinctive and well deserving of serious consideration. Tel. (707) 385-9396

Deep ruby. An explosively perfumed bouquet displays cherry pit, black raspberry and potpourri scents, along with notes of incense and musky herbs. Deeply concentrated dark fruit flavors are given spine by tangy minerality and pick up exotic floral pastille and allspice qualities with air. Shows outstanding concentration and power as well as vivacity, finishing with solid grip and a persistent floral note. David Low told me that this was the wine that had to be handled the least of all. "If a wine can make itself, this one proved it."