2011 Carlisle Zinfandel Pagani Ranch

A wine of tremendous energy and punch, the 2011 Zinfandel Pagani Ranch offers up layers of expressive dark red fruit supported by a vibrant beam of acidity. The tension, vibrancy and freshness in 2011 are a marvel to behold. I very much like the sense of nuance and vitality in the glass. All the elements are in the right place. The Pagani Ranch is old-vine (planted in the 1890s) Zinfandel with a dollop of mixed blacks, including Alicante Bouschet, Grand Noir, Petite Sirah and Carignane.

(from 118-year-old vines; includes an 8% mix of alicante bouschet, grand noir, petite sirah and carignane; 15.8% alcohol and a pH of 3.5): Opaque ruby. Powerful, brooding aromas of cherry-vanilla, cassis, dark chocolate and licorice. Dense and sweet, with a velvety texture, offering strong dark berry and plum preserve flavors brightened by a peppery nuance. Shows serious concentration and extract on the finish, featuring smooth tannins and a touch of mocha. This needs some time. Officer told me that this fruit was picked on October 1, safely ahead of the heavy rains.

A wine of tremendous energy and punch, the 2011 Zinfandel Pagani Ranch offers up layers of expressive dark red fruit supported by a vibrant beam of acidity. The tension, vibrancy and freshness in 2011 are a marvel to behold. I very much like the sense of nuance and vitality in the glass. All the elements are in the right place. The Pagani Ranch is old-vine (planted in the 1890s) Zinfandel with a dollop of mixed blacks, including Alicante Bouschet, Grand Noir, Petite Sirah and Carignane. Anticipated maturity: 2016-2026. Proprietor Mike Officer arrived with a bevy of wines for our tasting, all of which I was thrilled to sample. Readers who don’t think terroir exists in California should check out the Carlisle Zinfandels and Syrahs, many of which emerge from old-vine, heritage sites that nearly disappeared until Officer and some of his peers rescued them from the brink of oblivion. In particular, the 2011 Zinfandels are fabulous. Officer describes 2011 as a very late harvest. The Syrahs were all picked after the rains, while the thinner-skinned Zinfandels naturally came in quite a bit earlier. Officer told me he performed a severe selection of fruit that took with it a full 50% of the production. For his efforts, Officer has been rewarded with a set of gorgeous wines, although I imagine his faithful clientele won’t be too thrilled with the lower production levels of these wines, given their already minuscule production. Unfortunately, 2011 Compagni Portis and Gruner Veltliner were to be bottled right after this tasting, so I will have to wait until another opportunity to sample those wines. Carlisle is resolute in keeping his wines affordable, a commendable approach I wish were more common throughout California. Tel. (707) 566-7700