2009 Rivers-Marie Chardonnay Thieriot Vineyard

(13.9% alcohol): Good deep, full gold. Candied aromas of quince, orange and honey. Honey and butterscotch flavors suggest a bit of botrytis, but a firm spine of acidity keeps the wine from cloying. This rounded out nicely with time in the glass. In fact, says winemaker/proprietor Thomas Brown, the pH of 3.35 is on the high side for this wine, which is made with natural yeasts and no lees stirring.