2010 Delas Frères Crozes-Hermitage Domaine Les Grands Chemins

The dense purple-colored 2010 Crozes-Hermitage Domaine des Grands Chemins offers abundant meaty, smoky, tapenade, creme de cassis and bay leaf notes as well as exceptional intensity and full-bodied power. It can be drunk early in life or cellared for 10-15 years. Over the last 10-15 years, Delas Freres, which had muddled along with no great distinction for many years, has hit full stride under the ownership of the Louis Roederer-Deutz Champagne firm and the management of Jacques Grange, who continues to push the envelope of quality for both the Northern and Southern Rhone selections. The top single vineyard wines are world class in every sense, often flirting with perfection. Moreover, readers should realize this is also an impressive source for value. Delas’s top St.-Joseph cuvee comes from the hillside vineyards overlooking the small commune of St.-Jean de Muzols. The Delas firm owns 25 acres in Hermitage from which they make a basic cuvee, called Domaine des Tourettes, and, in the greatest vintages, a luxury cuvee, Les Bessards, which comes entirely from the great lieu-dit of the same name. Delas has long had a reputation for making outstanding Condrieu, of which he makes two cuvees. Importer: Maison Marques et Domaines, Oakland, CA; tel. (510) 587-2000

Inky purple. Very primary aromas and flavors of cherry pit, dark berries and licorice. Sappy and densely packed, with solid finishing punch and lingering smokiness. This is a pretty tough read right now.