1999 DeLille Cellars Chaleur Estate

The oldest wine in the retrospective was the 1999 Chaleur Estate, and this blend of 65% Cabernet Sauvignon, 26% Merlot and 9% Cabernet Franc (aged in 100% new oak) is still vibrant and youthful, with terrific notes of black currants, smoked earth, Asian spice and cedar. Gorgeous on the palate as well, with full-bodied richness, a deep, layered mid-palate and a great finish, this killer Bordeaux blend is right in the middle of its drink window, but it will continue evolving nicely for another 15+ years.

Supple, polished and seductive, playing out its pretty currant, cherry and exotic spice flavors on a velvety frame. Achieves a pinpoint balance, echoing the flavors harmoniously on the long, long finish.

This is DeLille's ultra-premium Bordeaux blend, a dense, complex, luxurious red wine composed of fruit from Klipsun, Ciel du Cheval and Boushey—three of the best vineyards in Washington. A lush bouquet of fresh fruits, spices, chocolate, coffee, leather and sweet vanilla gets things rolling. The wine is generous to a fault, with layers of expressive, tangy fruit, smoky oak and soft tannins. Not quite as ripe as the '98, it is perfectly balanced and cellar-worthy for at least a decade. Cellar Selection. — Paul Gregutt