2012 Domaine Hubert Lignier Clos de la Roche Grand Cru

(13.3% natural alcohol: the malo only finished in October; vinified with 15% whole clusters): Full red-ruby. Reduced aromas of black raspberry and menthol. Broad but juicy and tight; high-pitched and mineral-driven. This is by far the least advanced 2012 of the collection today. Finishes with fine-grained tannins and lovely persistence. Perhaps still a touch of malic acidity here. I may be underrating this.

Lignier's 2012 Clos de la Roche is striking. Smoke, ash, licorice and black cherries all burst from the glass. The 2012 is powerful and explosive to the core, with imposing structure, tons of depth and exceptional overall balance. The Clos de la Roche is the slowest wine to develop in the cellar. Malos weren't finished until October 2013! This is a fabulous showing from Lignier.