2009 Clos Erasmus Priorat

A thrilling Clos Erasmus that I think will be up there with the ’01 (and possibly the ’98) when all is said and done, the 2009 Clos Erasmus Priorat, an old-vine blend of 70% Garnacha and 30% Syrah aged for 22 months in barrel, delivers a textbook Erasmus bouquet of jammy raspberry, crème de cassis, cedar, licorice, flowers, dusty minerality, and vanilla that is decadent and exceedingly rich, yet somehow stays vibrant, fresh and delineated at the same time. Already voluptuous and hedonistic on the palate, with layers of fruit, beautiful freshness, and a full-bodied, rich texture, this nevertheless has solid underlying structure that emerges over the evening. Gorgeous all around, this is sublime now, yet deserves 3-4 years of bottle age, and should have upwards of 15 to 20 years of longevity.

(60% garnacha and 40% syrah): Bright ruby. An explosively perfumed, fruit-dominated bouquet displays raspberry liqueur, cherry-cola and candied plum, with notes of violet and incense adding complexity. Deeply pitched but energetic in the mouth, offering sappy red and dark berry flavors and a smooth, seamless texture. Floral and spice notes linger on a very long, subtly smoky finish. This seductive wine is approachable now, with some decanting, but I'd give it at least another seven years of bottle age.

The 2009 Clos Erasmus is a blend of 60% Garnacha and 40% Syrah aged for 20 months French oak of which 60% is new. It has a very ripe, almost “animal” bouquet with touches of liquorice and bacon fat. The palate is full-bodied with succulent, liquorice-infused tannins, good acidity and very good weight towards the balsamic-tinged finish, which has a firm grip. There is a mischievous hint of coconut on the finish of this unashamedly hedonistic, but charming, wine. Drink 2014-2025. Apr 2012, www.robertparker.com