2010 Carlisle Syrah Papa's Block

The 2010 Syrah Papa’s Block hits the palate with layers of dark fruit. Wonderfully vivid and alive for a wine of its size, the 2010 is absolutely compelling from the first taste. The addition of 33% whole clusters, along with a dollop of Mourvedre and Viognier, gives the 2010 an element of lift that is rare for such a big wine. A huge, concentrated wine, the 2010 is compelling today, but I imagine it will be even better in another few years. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2030. Proprietor Mike Officer arrived with a bevy of wines for our tasting, all of which I was thrilled to sample. Readers who don’t think terroir exists in California should check out the Carlisle Zinfandels and Syrahs, many of which emerge from old-vine, heritage sites that nearly disappeared until Officer and some of his peers rescued them from the brink of oblivion. In particular, the 2011 Zinfandels are fabulous. Officer describes 2011 as a very late harvest. The Syrahs were all picked after the rains, while the thinner-skinned Zinfandels naturally came in quite a bit earlier. Officer told me he performed a severe selection of fruit that took with it a full 50% of the production. For his efforts, Officer has been rewarded with a set of gorgeous wines, although I imagine his faithful clientele won’t be too thrilled with the lower production levels of these wines, given their already minuscule production. Unfortunately, 2011 Compagni Portis and Gruner Veltliner were to be bottled right after this tasting, so I will have to wait until another opportunity to sample those wines. Carlisle is resolute in keeping his wines affordable, a commendable approach I wish were more common throughout California. Tel. (707) 566-7700

(3.89 pH and 15.5% alcohol): Inky ruby. Wild, heady bouquet evokes candied dark berries, potpourri, sandalwood and olive tapenade. Lush, palate-staining blueberry and mulberry flavors show outstanding clarity and intensity, with sexy floral pastille and spicecake nuances building with air. Packs a very serious punch but possesses unlikely vivacity and finishes long and sappy, with strong spicy cut. By the standards of high-end syrah, from anywhere, this is a remarkable value. There are also 567 cases to go around.

The 2010 Syrah Papa's Block wraps around the palate with plums, black cherries, spices, mint, tobacco and sweet wild herbs. There is plenty of varietal character in the glass. I especially admire the interplay of minerality and fruit in this beautifully balanced Syrah. The Papa's Block was made with 33% whole clusters. It saw 20 days on the skins and was aged in French oak barrels, 26% new.