1996 Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único

1996 was a great vintage in Ribera del Duero, following 1994 and 1995, which were not shabby either. The 1996 Único from magnum shows a classical year, still with 13.5% alcohol, with 10% Cabernet Sauvignon that gives it the characteristic balsamic undertone. The wine has great freshness and balance, and it has a lively and agile palate. Thinking back to younger vintages, it feels like there was a change after 1996. It drinks very well today and works wonders with food, but it also has a good future ahead of it, especially in magnum. This was one of my favorite modern vintages, along with 2014 and 2004. 2,235 magnums produced. Artwork by Benjamín Palencia.

90% Tinto Fino, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. Wet and cool spring (but no frost). Hot summer with some rain. Harvest began 1 October in dry and warm conditions. After fermentation the wine remained in large-capacity wooden vats for 20 months. It then matured for 24 months in new casks, 24 months in second-use casks and 19 months in large-capacity wooden vats. 99,480 bottles, 2,235 magnums, 150 double magnums. From magnum. Slightly cloudy, shaded, blackish ruby. Sweet, fully mature nose with real embracing appeal on the nose with that light mintiness again. Fully evolved with the acidity just starting to impinge on the lightly treacly fruit. Really appetising but full-blown in terms of evolution. Impressively persistent. Really appetising but fully developed. (JR)

An excellent vintage in which the winemaker didn’t have to do anything. With 2004 and 1994, born great: opulent and potent. Very dark ruby with some evolution. Lifted nose. Very elegant. Fresh and racy with some liquorice notes. Not rich – quite elegant. Very much a food wine. Rather less weight than the 2004. All very much in balance. Scent of pine. Still lots of lively tannin. Long and neat. (JR)