2008 Vega-Sicilia Ribera del Duero Único

The 2008 Único comes from a cold vintage in Ribera del Duero, and they even suffered from frost in September. The wine is expressive and drinking well now, juicy and with fine tannins but a bit blurry and with some rusticity. 3,323 magnums were filled in June 2014. Artwork by Lucio Muñoz.

97% Tinto Fino, 3% Cabernet Sauvignon. Cool and wet spring followed by dry conditions from mid June but characterised by low nocturnal temperatures, dropping to 0 °C at the beginning of October (‘the anti-frost towers were therefore activated’) before harvest began on 10 October – very late vintage. Bottled June 2014: 59,214 bottles, 3,323 magnums, 210 double magnums and 24 Impériales. From magnum. Paleish crimson. Rich and sumptuous on the nose. Briary, fresh and racy on the palate with notable acidity. Quite a mismatch between nose and palate at the moment. A bit awkward and angular at present with the alcohol evident on the end. (JR)

Opaque ruby. Powerful, expansive aromas of cherry liqueur, cassis, pipe tobacco, incense and pungent flowers show outstanding clarity and pick up a smoky mineral quality with air. Stains the palate with concentrated dark berry, bitter cherry and rose pastille flavors that are complicated by notes of mocha, cola and Indian spices. Distinctly generous in style but there's outstanding energy here as well. The gently tannic, dark-fruit-dominated finish emphatically echoes the spice and floral notes and lingers with striking persistence. Production for this bottling was cut by over half in this challenging vintage and the result shows what can happen when severe selection is applied in the vineyard and cellar. (JR)