2005 Louis Jadot Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

The Jadot 2005 Charmes-Chambertin epitomizes the dark, almost somber side of the vintage, which seems somewhat out of character for this site. A bitter side to black cherry fruit and low-toned meatiness characterize both the nose and palate, with a firm chalkiness and tactile notes of pungent brown spice informing a bitter-sweet and rather austere finish. But there is no denying the sheer intensity or length on display , and one would have to revisit only after 3-5 years, I suspect, to see whether more complexity and finesse had developed. This represents a blend of wine from three different sources, and possibly they have simply been reluctant to cohabitate. Jacques Lardiere has once again presided over a collection for the most part not intended to flatter in its youth, but rather to achieve an eventual balance of fruit acidity with (in this instance frequently quite prominent) tannin. Prolonged post-fermentative extraction promoted a formidably-structured group of wines, which Lardiere expressed no hurry about bottling. Certain of these – particularly from the Cote de Beaune – displayed a slightly drying finishing astringency or simply an austere lack of charm to match their concentration, traits Lardiere suggested might be traceable to drought stress in those sites. A brief July rain that reached the Cote de Nuits but not the Cote de Beaune was critical, he asserts, and all of Jadot’s vines in the northern Cote were picked before the harvest in the south commenced. (Wines from the Domaine Louis Jadot, Domaine Heritiers Louis Jadot, or Domaine Gagey, have been identified with a letter “D” in their listings.) Also recommended: 2005 Cote de Nuits-Villages Le Vaucrain ($25.00;86+?), 2005 Santenay Clos de Malte ($27.00; 85-87), 2005 Savigny-les-Beaune Aux Guettes (84-86+?), 2005 Nuits-St.-Georges ($37.00; 85-87+?), 2005 Chambolle-Musigny ($50.00; 85-87+?). Importer: Kobrand, Inc., New York, NY; tel.(212) 490 9300

Good deep red. Black cherry and smoked meat on the nose. Superripe but dry, with flavors of tar, chocolate and licorice. This comes across as a bit inky and stunted, and shows much less personality and finesse today than the Clos Saint-Jacques.