2009 Domaine Henri Gouges Nuits-Saint-Georges Les Saint-Georges 1er Cru

Good bright medium red. A coulis of red fruits on the nose, complicated by notes of menthol, licorice and chocolatey torrefaction; a bit more medicinal than mineral today. At once velvety-sweet and powerful; very large-scaled and chewy for this wine. Sound acidity gives shape and grip to the flavors and serious mouthdusting tannins call for a solid decade of cellaring. Very different in style from the more minerally, perfumed 2010, but these two wines track their vintages accurately.

The 2009 Nuits St. Georges Les St. Georges seems to bring all of the best elements of the vintage and the house style together. It is a dark, sensual wine with gorgeous baritone depth to the fruit. The St. Georges takes shape beautifully in the glass, showing endless layers of definition. Sweet floral, mentholated notes appear later, as the wine's more delicate side emerges. Still, the St. Georges remains a bit of a brute for now. It, too, will require considerable patience. Those who can wait will be treated to an extraordinary Burgundy. Tasted from tank.

Jewelly fruit. Lots of sweetness. Very substantial, attractive earthiness. Very sweet and just a tiny tad soft. Sweet and rich and seductive. (JR)