2009 San Giuseppe Stella di Campalto Brunello di Montalcino

The 2009 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva is quite open-knit, radiant and accessible. Raspberry jam, white pepper, flowers, mint and sweet spices hove on the palate in a decidedly mid-weight Brunello that emphasizes grace and agility. The persistent, textured finish is striking. It will be interesting to see if the 2009 puts on weight in bottle, or if it remains the slghtly fragile, fleeting wine it is today. Stella di Campalto's wines never lack intrigue, that is for sure.

Very pale ruby. Very fine but clearly from a warm year with hints of dried fruit. Sweet youthful fruit framed by lots of grainy tannins. Elegant and fluid and long, but not really approachable now. (WS)

The 2009 Brunello di Montalcino is sweet, rich, layered and super-inviting. Bright red fruit, rose petals, mint, sweet spices and orange peel are all very much alive in the glass. The flavors are bright and high-toned, with citrus and white pepper overtones that add an attractive upper register full of intrigue. The 2009 spent a whopping 43 months in cask. I don't see too much upside from cellaring bottles for an extended period, but then again, these wines have a way of growing in bottle.