1999 Domaine des Comtés Lafon Meursault Les Perrières 1er Cru

Bright yellow-gold. At once oxidative and high-toned on the nose, offering musky scents of hazelnut, orange zest and quince. Still has some life and sweet fruit but too edgy for me. Finishes dry, with obvious volatile acidity. Lafon did not present this vintage as part of the vertical tasting at the estate, noting that '99 was "his most variable vintage for premox." This bottle came from my own cellar and Lafon was right. (55 h/h; 3.3 pH; 3.4 g/l acidity)

Nutty, orange peel, Eastern spices, mineral and gunflint – very deep and powerful sense of citrus fruit. Mature, zesty and rich on the palate, with an almost rancid butter flavour. The oxidative quality is a little distracting – this might be just a few years too old. (RH)

The demure aromas of the 1999 Meursault Perrieres reveal hints of stones and minerals. Light to medium-bodied and detailed, this is a delicate, elegant wine. Its nuanced flavors, mostly freshly cut flowers and minerals, are rather shy, yet subtle and exquisite. Projected maturity: now-2007. Importers: Various including Classic Wine Imports, Boston, MA; tel: (617) 731-6644, and Ex Cellars, Solvang, CA; tel (805) 686-9153.