2010 Domaine Christian Moreau Père et Fils Chablis Les Clos des Hospices Grand Cru

The 2010 Chablis Les Clos Clos des Hospices adds some of the textural richness found in the Valmur with the delicacy and salinity of Les Clos. Smoke, graphite, crushed rocks and licorice are some of the many notes that add complexity on the textured, caressing finish. This is another standout from Moreau. The style is a bit huge and the rich fruit will surprise those looking for subtlety, but it all works. Anticipated maturity: 2012. There are a handful of famous producers in Chablis, and a larger number of emerging estates, but the few wineries are as overlooked as Christian Moreau. This is one of the few domaines where I preferred the 2011s to the 2010s. The 2011s have notable freshness and energy, while the 2010s are at times a bit on the heavy side. Perhaps it is a question of harvest dates or the conversion to biodynamic farming that was in its second year in 2011, or a combination of other factors, but it is pretty clear the 2011s have the upper hand when tasted next to the 2010s. The 2011 harvest started on September 2, a good two weeks earlier than 2010. Some of the wines were chaptalized by half a percent. Total acidities were in the 4.5-5% range, which Moreau reports as being similar to 2010. The 2011 Chablis was bottled the first week of June. I tasted the rest of the 2011s from tank or barrel. The 2010s were harvested beginning on September 16th. These are decidedly rich, large-scaled wines endowed with considerable concentration. Yields were down 30-50% because of hail and poor flowering, and that has marked the wines to a significant degree. Overall, I have a slight preference for the 2011s, which are less bombastic than the 2010s. Importer: Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

Pale, bright yellow. Very closed nose hints at underripe pineapple and vanillin oak. Steely and penetrating but also sweeter and fruitier than the classic Clos bottling, with terrific depth of peach and apricot flavor. (The Moreaus' Clos des Hospices holding is situated low on the hill, where the soil is deeper and richer in clay than higher up.) Quite powerful on the very long finish, but much easier to taste today than the classic Clos.

The estate's 2010 Chablis Les Clos Clos des Hospices(from a single parcel in Les Clos) is a delicate, understated wine laced with hints of smoke, ash, crushed rocks and citrus. It comes across as quite reserved next to Les Clos. The Clos des Hospices impresses for its striking beauty, detail and tense, wiry finish. This is likely to require a measure of patience. The 45% oak is very well balanced.