2005 Camille Giroud Latricieres-Chambertin Grand Cru

Vines planted in 1965. Destemmed whole berries. 25% new oak. Two months in stainless steel after 18 months in oak, of which 25% was new. Dark garnet with many layers. Liquorice, rather noble nose. Very firm and fine. Lots to chew on. But masses of interesting fruit too. Great balance between ripe fruit and tension. I’d ideally wait a little while for this as the fine tannins still insist a little. Great undertow. Real nervousness with substance – bravo! Long and juicy. (JR)

The 2005 Latricieres-Chambertin (purchased partly as grapes and partly as wine) offers a clear, enticing nose of tiny purple plums, blueberries, lilies, beef marrow, and hints of caramel and vanilla. Polished and bright, it exudes the refinement that the Chapelle lacked, leading to a real rush of lingering sweet, caramel- and vanilla-tinged fruit in the finish. The tannins are abundant but ultra-refined. Sock this away for at least a decade and figure on at least an additional decade to hold. There will be a relatively hefty 225 cases. Readers are referred to Pierre Rovani’s report in Issue 160 for details on the acquisition of this house in 2002 by Ann Colgin and a group of Americans, and on Becky Wasserman’s directorial role. At only around 4,500 cases, 2005 will represent their largest production yet, “and we’ll stay small,” says young, manifestly-talented winemaker David Croix. Croix works intensively in the vineyard with most of his suppliers. He ages the wines largely in newly-purchased but once-used barrels, augmented by a low percentage of new casks. I tasted all of the wines immediately prior to their first racking which was late, explains Croix (despite malo-lactic fermentations early by 2005 standards), because the quality of the fruit deserved the enrichment and protection of long lees contact and a slightly reduced state. They will be bottled without filtration in March or April. Various Importers. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet; fax 011- 333-80-24-29-70.

(a blend of grapes vinified by Croix and purchased wine) Saturated ruby-red. Deep, captivating aromas of blueberry, blackberry, violet, minerals and sexy oak. Then juicy and tightly wound but with terrific intensity and lift; with aeration this showed an increasingly creamy, fine-grained texture and noteworthy ripeness and elegance. Very broad wine, dry in a positive way. The longest to this point of these 2005s. Finishes with strong, dusty tannins and lingering notes of dark berries, flowers and minerals. A superb showing today.