2005 Domaine Lucien Boillot et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cherbaudes 1er Cru

From 90-year-old vines (his oldest) from below the Clos de Beze comes Boillot’s 2005 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Cherbaudes. Concentrated fresh black cherry mingles with incense and resin on the nose. A silky texture, ultra-fine tannins, and intense fresh and liqueur-like expression of black fruit make for a memorable mouthful of Pinot that finishes with refined hints of cherry pit, brown spices, meat and mineral, fresh fruit clarity, and gentle but long reach. This should be fascinating to follow for a decade or more. Also recommended: 2005 Fixin (unknown; 85-87). Having moved from Volnay to a newly-expanded facility he shares with his wife, Ghislaine Barthod, Louis Boillot fields a large and geographically diverse range of generally impressive, pure-fruited Pinots. (In rating them, I have left some leeway to allow for my previous unfamiliarity with Louis Boillot’s wines.) Importer: Rosenthal Wine Merchant, Pine Plains, NY; tel. (800) 910-1990.