2012 Domaine Billaud-Simon et Fils Chablis Les Clos Grand Cru
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This possesses what is arguably the most aromatically complex nose in the range with its perfumed and ripe scents of oyster shell, sea breeze, green apple, lemon rind and white flowers. The wonderfully refined large-scaled flavors are almost pungently mineral and this stony character continues onto the markedly dry, balanced and hugely finish that exudes hints of iodine. This is breathtakingly good though note well that it will require extended bottle age to realize its considerable potential. 2024+
Punteggi della critica
Allen Meadows, Burghound
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
Altre recensioni e punteggi
The 2012 Chablis Les Clos is totally intriguing. Initially a bit reticent, the Clos only blossoms on the mid-palate and finish, where the wine's texture and breadth are most apparent. Silky, perfumed and polished throughout, the 2012 impresses for its fabulous balance and faithful expression of this great site.
The 2012 Chablis Grand Cru Les Clos has a very well-defined and precise bouquet with yellow flowers, hints of tangerine and almond coming through with aeration. The palate is crisp and focused with a fine thread of acidity and a precise, tightly wound finish which, like the domaine’s fellow 2012 Grand Crus, needs another two or three years in bottle. It is confusing having both a Samuel Billaud and a Billaud-Simon producing wines in Chablis, but unfortunately that is the case while the intra-family dispute goes on. One hopes it is resolved sooner rather than later. Charles Louis Noel Billaud established the estate in 1815, thereby making it one of the forefathers of the region. Bernard Billaud returned to the domaine in 1991, whereupon he seized the opportunity to ratchet up the quality by installing a pneumatic press and stainless steel tanks. I have tasted the wines regularly here in the UK and they have always been impressive. For sure, the 2012s were perhaps a little more inconsistent due to the challenges of the growing season. But the grand crus certainly deliver where it matters – in the glass – while I appreciate the premier crus remaining true to their respective terroirs. Post-script: As this report went to print, news filtered through with regard to the sale of Domaine Billaud-Simon to Maison Faiveley, giving them a strong foothold in the region. How this will impact Samuel Billaud remains to be seen, though it clearly thwarts any hopes of him returning to farming the vines that he once tended (wouldn’t it be a twist if Faiveley subsequently appointed him winemaker!). Exact details are yet to emerge, but hopefully all parties can move forward. Importer: Langdon Shiverick, Los Angeles, CA; tel. (213) 483-5900
Bright, pale yellow. Knockout nose combines ginger, quinine, caraway seed and crushed stone, lifted by a note of elderflower. Densely packed, tight and virile; dry, rich and quite long, offering a lovely balance of zesty lemony acidity and fruit sweetness. Finishes with strong saline minerality.