2014 Vega Sicilia Valbuena 5

Magnum. Less ebullient than their 2015. Seems altogether younger and less open-knit. Still frowny. The underlying quality is all intact though, with dried tea, black fruit and earth – just expressed in a quieter mode. (RH)

Drinking nicely, with a forward, supple, yet still nicely concentrated style, the deep ruby/plum-hued 2014 Valbuena offers up ample darker currant and berry fruits as well as roasted herbs, scorched earth, and spice, with some floral and sandalwood notes emerging with time in the glass. A more understated, elegant, nuanced version of this cuvée, it's medium-bodied and has beautiful overall balance, supple tannins, and outstanding length. The 2014 is 95% Tempranillo and 5% Merlot, and it should continue drinking nicely for another 10-15 years with no issues.

Vivid ruby. A highly perfumed, complex bouquet displays smoke-accented cherry and black currant liqueur, vanilla, pipe tobacco and incense qualities, along with exotic spice and mineral overtones. Sweet and deeply concentrated, offering expansive dark fruit, floral pastille, chewing tobacco and spicecake flavors that become livelier and pick up a hint of cola with aeration. Seamless, focused and lively for its lushness, finishing very long and sweet, with building florality and fine-grained tannins lending gentle grip.