2006 Arietta Quartet Red

(48% merlot, 32% cabernet sauvignon, 16% cabernet franc and 4% petit verdot) Good, deep ruby-red. Rather sullen aromas of bitter chocolate, licorice, smoke and menthol. Sweet, layered and deep, with a subtle sweetness to the flavors of blueberry and dark chocolate. Finishes with sweet tannins and an edge of acidity. Impressive for what is essentially this producer's entry-level wine.

The Pichon Lalande/Palmer-like blend called Quartet (generally 40+% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30-35% Merlot, 15-24% Cabernet Franc, and the rest Petit Verdot) is an intriguing wine. The 2006 Quartet reveals a dark ruby color along with notes of crushed rocks, spring flowers, red and black fruits, medium to full body, and elevated, austere tannins. It should be forgotten for 3-4 years, and drunk over the following 15 years. Some of California’s more innovative wines emerge from proprietor Fritz Hatton, the well-known auctioneer who is also a classical pianist. Hatton has been expanding his portfolio with each new vintage, and it appears his blended cuvees turn out more interesting than the varietal wines. Usually a blend of 55-60% Cabernet Franc and the rest Merlot is the proprietary red wine from the H Block of the Hudson Vineyard. The most expensive offering in the portfolio, it is very Cheval Blanc-like. Tel. (707) 963-5918; Fax (707) 963-5919

(a new wine that includes 45% cabernet sauvignon, 26% cabernet franc, 22% merlot and 7% petit verdot) Full ruby-red. Blueberry, violet and mint on the nose. Juicy, fresh and vibrant, with firm acidity and solid tannic backbone giving it very good flavor definition. Today, this is the least fleshy of these young 2006s, with the result that the tannins come across as more dusty. A bit oaky on the back end too. From David Abreu's vineyard on top of Howell mountain, plus some cabernet franc from Hudson vineyard.