2009 Louis Jadot Chambertin-Clos de Bèze Grand Cru

The 2009 Chambertin-Clos de Beze is unusually open and seductive. It flows with extraordinary finesse and pure elegance. White floral notes, cassis and spices wrap around the palate, adding tons of nuance. The firm tannins don’t quite allow the fruit to be fully expressive, but all that is needed here is time. Waves of flavor build to the huge, dazzling finish. This is a fabulous showing from Jadot. Anticipated maturity: 2024-2044. Importer: Kobrand Corp., Purchase, NY; tel. (914) 253-7756

Bright medium red. Knockout soil-driven nose combines red cherry, cocoa powder, brown spices, dried flowers, lavender and minerals. The palate offers compelling high-pitched flavors of red fruits and flowers complemented by strong saline soil tones. Conveys a powerful impression of extract without any fat. This youthfully imploded wine magically combines power and finesse, finishing with outstanding sappiness and thrust. It was hard to scrape this off my palate--not that I tried.

Medium red. Pungent, highly perfumed nose offers minerals, dried rose, licorice and pepper; very showy today due to the early malo. Then juicy and pure, with superb energy and precision giving the wine a penetrating quality rare for the year. The tannins are covered by intense fruit on the very long finish, which features strong spicy and floral notes and a medicinal reserve. Lardiere compared this wine to a '59.