2009 Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

The 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru is incredibly sensual and polished. Layers of effortless, gracious fruit caress the palate in this soft, perfumed wine. Freshly cut flowers red cherries and spices appear later, adding complexity and nuance. The 2009 comes across as a bit reticent, but with time in the glass the wine finds its minerality and focus. An energetic finish adds considerable brightness. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2029. Sisters Marie-Andree and Marie-Christine Mugneret made some of the very best wines of the year. Their 2009s capture the silky, sexy personality of the vintage while maintaining a classic, mid-weight sense of structure. Importers: Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300, a Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93

(from the young vines--planted in 2000--in Ruchottes-Chambertin): Medium red. Expressive, nuanced nose combines raspberry, crushed stone, minerals, wild herbs, licorice and purple flowers. Juicy, spicy and slightly high-toned, with the red fruit and floral character carrying through on the palate. The classically, dry gripping finish seems partly Chambolle red fruits and partly Gevrey earth. Very successful for this bottling.

(made from Ruchottes young vines) Good bright palish red. Slightly high-toned aromas of redcurrant, leather, smoke and minerals; shallower than the grand crus. Then supple and easygoing on the palate, offering considerable early appeal. I don't find a hidden dimension here, but the suave, dusty tannins will not stand in the way of early drinkability.