2010 Domaine Mugneret-Gibourg Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

The 2010 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru, from young vines in Ruchottes, reveals gorgeous silkiness and elegance in its small red berries, flowers and mint. This is all about understatement in its nuance, clarity and detail. A gracious, feminine finish rounds things out in style. I loved it.

The 2010 Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru, from young vines in Ruchottes, reveals gorgeous silkiness and elegance in its small red berries, flowers and mint. This is all about understatement in its nuance, clarity and detail. A gracious, feminine finish rounds things out in style. I loved it. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2022. Sisters Marie-Andree and Marie-Christine Mugneret had a tough harvest in 2010. For starters, the December frost wiped out a hectare of Vosnes villages just behind the winery. The vineyard has been replanted and will be used for the Bourgogne until it reaches the age necessary for it to once again be part of the villages bottling. Overall production is 22,000 bottles versus the more normal 34,000. As for the wines, well, they are magnificent. The same holds true for the 2009s, which I will report on in the next issue. Importers: Michael Skurnik Wines, Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300, a Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93

(from the young vines in Ruchottes-Chambertin): Bright full red. Lovely lift to the aromas of redcurrant, leather, dusty spices, game and graphite. Supple and sweet on the palate, but without the depth of the estate's other cru bottlings. Finishes a tad medicinal. The tannins are a bit dry, as there's less supporting material here.