2008 Domaine des Comtés Lafon Meursault Les Genevrières 1er Cru

(bottled in early April) Bright pale yellow. Orange blossom and crushed stone on the high-pitched, very pure nose. Supple, silky and highly perfumed, with bright acids lifting the orange peel, orange oil and spice flavors. Nothing heavy about this baby. A lovely Genevrieres with cut and lift.

Racked in July. Usually the young vine fruit is declassified but not in a year as ungenerous as 2008. Light, herbal nose – not as intense as usual. Very assertive but a little ungainly and awkward without much finesse and a little bitterness on the finish. Solid and long. This may all come together to offer something much more impressive eventually. It is certainly persistent. (JR)

(tasted from a new barrel) Aromas of citrus peel and lime blossom. Big and deep but bright and energetic; less smooth than the 2007 version but impressively concentrated and chewy wine, with superb length. A rather powerful, almost tannic style, with alcohol in the high 13s.