2009 Radio-Coteau Chardonnay Savoy

A bigger, more pliant wine, the 2009 Chardonnay Savoy shows the overtness of the vintage in its rich, expressive fruit. Dried apricots, pears and spices all flesh out on the radiant, deep finish. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2017. This lineup from Radio-Coteau and proprietor Eric Sussman was among the most thrilling I tasted this year. Radio-Coteau practices sustainable farming and hands-off winemaking, which includes native fermentations, minimal rackings and bottling without fining or filtration. What ultimately counts, though, is what is in the bottle, and more often than not, these are compelling wines that deserve serious attention. Among many things, Sussman told me Syrah did better in 2011 than in 2010. Yields were down dramatically, but the fruit that was left was exceptional. Tel. (707) 823-2578

Bright gold. Pungent bouquet evokes mango, green papaya, pear skin and smoky minerals. Deeply pitched orchard fruit flavors are enlivened by juicy acidity, picking up floral and spice notes with air. Chewy, concentrated and powerful but lively as well, finishing with impressive clarity and thrust. This is drinking very well right now.