2010 Radio-Coteau Chardonnay Savoy

The 2010 Chardonnay Savoy is laced with almonds, dried pears and spices. A rich, resonant Chardonnay, the 2010 Savoy impresses for its textured personality, length and balance. The predominance of the Wente clones comes through nicely, but at the same time, the 2010 has plenty of inner perfume and lovely overall balance. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2018. This lineup from Radio-Coteau and proprietor Eric Sussman was among the most thrilling I tasted this year. Radio-Coteau practices sustainable farming and hands-off winemaking, which includes native fermentations, minimal rackings and bottling without fining or filtration. What ultimately counts, though, is what is in the bottle, and more often than not, these are compelling wines that deserve serious attention. Among many things, Sussman told me Syrah did better in 2011 than in 2010. Yields were down dramatically, but the fruit that was left was exceptional. Tel. (707) 823-2578

Light, green-tinged yellow. Exotic, heady aromas of poached pear, white flowers, iodine and clove, with a smoky mineral topnote. Juicy, sharply focused orchard and citrus fruit flavors are complemented by a touch of sweet butter and pick up anise and spice nuances with air. Finishes sappy, stony and very long, with lingering smokiness and florality.

The 2010 Chardonnay Savoy is a beautiful wine. An expressive bouquet melds into expressive layers of fruit in this vibrant, highly articulate Chardonnay. White flowers, lemon and minerals inform the long, vibrant finish. This is a terrific showing. The Savoy is made from 60% Wente and 40% Prosser clones. The wine is aged on its lees, with batonnage. The wine was scheduled to be racked only for bottling in late January 2012.