2006 Behrens Family Erna Schein Syrah Alder Springs Vineyard Homage to Ed Oliveira

Another brilliant effort from Lisa and Les Behrens is the 2006 Homage to Ed Oliviera Alder Sp rings Vineyard. This 300-case cuvee of 84% Syrah and 16% Petite Sirah displays black and blue fruits, raspberries, lead pencil shavings, spring flowers, and wet stones. Dense, full-bodied, lush, and succulent, revealing oodles of fruit and glycerin as well as a hedonistic, blockbuster, fruit-driven style, it should age effortlessly for 5-10 years. Known as Behrens and Hitchcock until the departure of Bob Hitchcock, this artisinal winery on the top of Spring Mountain has changed its name to Erna Schein. The proprietors, Les and Lisa Behrens, continue to fine tune an intriguing portfolio of wines. Because of disappointing results from synthetic closures, they have now gone back to traditional cork. Lisa is widely regarded as one of Napa’s most capable viticulturists, and appears to have a knack for finding forgotten vineyard treasures. In addition to the name change, the Behrens seem to be moving away from varietal names, using instead a series of colorful, often provocative labels. All the following wines are flavorful, exuberant, full-bodied offerings made with indigenous yeasts, and are bottled unfined and unfiltered. They represent true low-tech wines. Tel. (707) 963-1774; Fax (707) 963-8206

(blended with 8% each petite sirah and cabernet sauvignon) Bright, full ruby. Sappy aromas of blackberry, violet, orange zest, pepper and licorice. Lush, broad and full, with chewy flavors of black fruits, bitter chocolate and tar. A big, chewy mouthful of wine, finishing with huge but ripe tannins and a late note of licorice. I find this more pliant and better balanced than the 2005 version.