2010 Arkenstone Obsidian

From black, rocky soils, the impressive 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Obsidian is the finest wine in this group. Still backward and not much different than a young barrel sample given its youthfulness, it reveals a dense blue/purple color along with notes of blackberries, black currants, wet rocks, new oak, baking spices and licorice. The attractive aromatics are followed by a deep, full-bodied, broodingly backward, rich wine that will benefit from 2-3 years of cellaring and keep for two decades. This is an interesting set of wines from a hobbiest on Howell Mountain. Even though Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc prices are rising into the stratosphere, there is little to complain about qualitatively. I also tasted a 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon Obsidian (rated 92) that was very impressive and still extremely young, so these wines may have even greater aging potential than I have suggested. Tel. (707) 965-1020, www.arkenstone.com