2012 Williams Selyem Chardonnay Unoaked

Pale yellow. Pungent, spice-tinged bouquet evokes lemon curd, anise, lime zest and quince, with a hint of smokiness in the background. I'd have guessed that some oak was in play here, and I'd have been wrong. Fresh and nervy on the palate, offering vivid citrus fruit and pear flavors that put on weight with air. A refreshingly bitter note of quinine adds bite to the emphatically dry finish, which clings with good spicy tenacity.