1997 Domaine Leroy Vosne-Romanée Les Genevrières

The medium-to-dark ruby-colored 1997 Vosne-Romanee Les Genevrieres reveals violets, roses, and red berries in its aromatics. Silky-textured, medium-to-full-bodied, and intense, this concentrated wine saturates the palate with candied red cherries, blueberries, and Asian spices. Its outstanding depth of fruit and seamless structure portend a bright future. Anticipated maturity: now-2010. Importers: Martine's Wines, Inc., San Rafael, CA; tel (415) 485-1800, and Paterno Imports, Chicago, IL; tel (847) 604-8900.

Good deep red. Brooding aromas of plum, redcurrant and smoke; this is more floral on the nose, whereas the last two are more minerally. Tight and firm, with good acidity, but a bit slight. Here, too, there's less middle to support the tannins. I also picked up a slight sourness on the finish that I did not detect in any of the other Leroy '97s.