2011 Behrens Family Cabernet Sauvignon The Cemetery

The 2011 Cemetery is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from David Abreu's Cappella Vineyard. This is one of the few of the Behrens 2011s that needs more time in bottle. The aromatics are quite pretty and expressive, but the tannins are also a bit firm at this stage. Plums, blueberries, sage and mint add nuance on the structured, highly expressive finish.

(14.9% alcohol; 100% cabernet sauvignon; from vines on a gravel bar): Bright medium ruby. Blueberry, violet, bitter chocolate and menthol on the very ripe, varietally accurate nose. Suave and fine-grained if a bit youthfully closed, showing rich black cherry flavor accented by a hint of fresh herbs. Good energy and broad tannins give this youthfully backward, classic cabernet a solid structural underpinning. One block was picked before the rain and one afterwards, according to Les Behrens.

Year-in and year-out one of my favorite labels is Cabernet Sauvignon Cemetery and the 2011 is another 100% Cabernet Sauvignon with a bone-chilling label, but generous, warm, inviting aromas and flavors. Juicy and fleshy with an unctuous texture (somewhat surprising for a 2011), this wine transcends its vintage, offering lots of cassis, blueberry and blackberry notes, no oak, and a thick texture. Enjoy this mouth-coating red with a hearty slab of roast beef over the next decade. The always interesting, creative Behrens Family operation high on Spring Mountain has fashioned another enticing portfolio of wines with some of the most creepy and funny labels in the wine business. The labels often belie just how serious this estate is about its vineyards and the quality of its wines. Tel. (707) 963-1774