2006 Behrens Family Cabernet Sauvignon The Cemetery

Another Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated offering, the 2006 Cemetery (75% Cabernet Sauvignon, 12% Petit Verdot, and the rest Cabernet Franc, all from David Abreu’s vineyards) displays a stunning bouquet of graphite, smoked herbs, blueberry and blackberry liqueur, chocolate, and toasty oak. The outstanding aromatics are followed by a lavishly rich, extravagantly fruit-driven wine with superb body, richness, and texture as well as a compelling, hedonistic appeal. It should drink well for a decade or more. Known as Behrens and Hitchcock until the departure of Bob Hitchcock, this artisinal winery on the top of Spring Mountain has changed its name to Erna Schein. The proprietors, Les and Lisa Behrens, continue to fine tune an intriguing portfolio of wines. Because of disappointing results from synthetic closures, they have now gone back to traditional cork. Lisa is widely regarded as one of Napa’s most capable viticulturists, and appears to have a knack for finding forgotten vineyard treasures. In addition to the name change, the Behrens seem to be moving away from varietal names, using instead a series of colorful, often provocative labels. All the following wines are flavorful, exuberant, full-bodied offerings made with indigenous yeasts, and are bottled unfined and unfiltered. They represent true low-tech wines. Tel. (707) 963-1774; Fax (707) 963-8206