2011 Radio-Coteau Pinot Noir Dierke

A big substantial wine the 2011 Pinot Noir Dierke impresses for its sheer heft and poise. Rich, intense and layered, today the Dierke comes across as an infant. The aromas and flavors remain quite undeveloped at this stage. It will be interesting to see where the Dierke goes over the next year. Today it is all about primary fruit, intensity and pure energy.

(from a 2.6 acre plot just west of Sebastopol; aged in 50% new oak): Deep red. Heady aromas of dark berries, incense and potpourri. Sweet black raspberry and cherry-vanilla flavors show impressive energy and focus, with a sexy rose pastille nuance emerging with air. The floral note builds on the very long, juicy finish, which is nicely framed by gentle, fully absorbed tannins.

A big, substantial wine, the 2011 Pinot Noir Dierke impresses for its sheer heft and poise. Rich, intense and layered, today the Dierke comes across as an infant. The aromas and flavors remain quite undeveloped at this stage. It will be interesting to see where the Dierke goes over the next year. Today it is all about primary fruit, intensity and pure energy. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2023. This lineup from Radio-Coteau and proprietor Eric Sussman was among the most thrilling I tasted this year. Radio-Coteau practices sustainable farming and hands-off winemaking, which includes native fermentations, minimal rackings and bottling without fining or filtration. What ultimately counts, though, is what is in the bottle, and more often than not, these are compelling wines that deserve serious attention. Among many things, Sussman told me Syrah did better in 2011 than in 2010. Yields were down dramatically, but the fruit that was left was exceptional. Tel. (707) 823-2578