2010 Radio-Coteau Syrah Dusty Lane

Opaque purple. Smoky, mineral-accented cherry and dark berries on the nose, along with dark chocolate, potpourri and bacon fat scents; reminds me a lot of a northern Rhone wine. Juicy dark berry flavors are enlivened by tangy minerality and gain sweetness and depth with air. Finishes with impressive lift and thrust, leaving notes of cracked pepper and violet behind. This wine was raised in a single, once-used puncheon.

The most elusive and floral of the 2010 Syrahs, the 2010 Syrah Dusty Lane is absolutely compelling. High-toned floral notes meld into savory herbs, tobacco and sweet red cherries. The 2010 has an element of lift that isn’t always present in this bottling. Like all the Radio-Coteau wines, the Dusty Lane is alive with artisan spirit. The wine was fermented with manual punch downs and native yeasts. It is a shame there are only 54 cases to go around. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. This lineup from Radio-Coteau and proprietor Eric Sussman was among the most thrilling I tasted this year. Radio-Coteau practices sustainable farming and hands-off winemaking, which includes native fermentations, minimal rackings and bottling without fining or filtration. What ultimately counts, though, is what is in the bottle, and more often than not, these are compelling wines that deserve serious attention. Among many things, Sussman told me Syrah did better in 2011 than in 2010. Yields were down dramatically, but the fruit that was left was exceptional. Tel. (707) 823-2578