2008 Paul Hobbs Syrah Kick Ranch Vineyard

Inky purple. Intensely musky blackcurrant, blueberry, tobacco, pepper and dried violet on the nose. Suave but not yet expressive, hinting at dark berry compote, cracked pepper and pungent flowers. There's a slight give to the middle, but the firm edge of youthfully dusty tannins calls a few more years of patience.

The 2008 Syrah Kick Ranch Vineyard reveals chocolaty, earthy, peppery notes intermixed with aromas of black olives and blackberries. While more monolithic, it is still outstanding in its richness, depth, and power. It should be drunk during its first 7-8 years of life. (Not yet released) Readers looking for wines packed with flavor as well as personality can do no better than uber-consultant Paul Hobbs’ line-up of Chardonnays, Pinot Noirs, and Syrahs. All of his bottled wines showed even stronger than they did from barrel tastings. All of these Chardonnays spend between 10 and 16 months in barrel, with the percentage of new oak ranging from 80% (for the Cuvee Agustina), 70% (for the Walker Station), and 55-65% for the Ritchie, Ulises Valdez, and Richard Dinner cuvees. The 2008 Chardonnays, while very good, are not up to the level of the flawless 2007s. The 2008 Pinot Noirs performed well, although they are slightly lower-keyed wines without the structure and density of the 2007s. Paul Hobbs produces Syrah from the Kick Ranch Vineyard, which is in the so-called Petaluma Wind Gap (lots of wind and a cool coastal temperature). Tel. (707) 824-9879; Fax (707) 824-5843